Om vi behöver en bok
Södra Anderna karta (Aconcagua)
Centrala Anderna (Ojos De S, Pissis)

alla kartor vi någonsin kan behöva över argentina



Hasegawa climbed aco in august, new route, 7 days hard fight. the rest of the team failed.
100-300$ beroende på årstid.
Allt!   rules for winter mountaineering bra site om aco bra site om aco

Ojos de Salado
Supercoola bilder!
Info och bilder  pissis 2'nd from arg OR chi

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The highest peaks in Chile and also those in Argentina apart from Aconcagua, lie near the southern limits of the Atacama Desert and are rarely visited due to the extreme isolation and lack of water. The Atacama is commonly considered the world's driest desert area. There has been a long debate as to whether Pissis or Ojos del Salado, the latter often referred to as the highest active volcano in the world, is the second highest summit in the Americas after Aconcagua. Recent 'accurate' Argentinian surveys give the benefit of the doubt to Pissis and the Argentine IGM sheet 2769-III at 1:250,000, the only accurate topographical map in existence to feature both summits, now marks Ojos as 6,864m and Pissis at 6,882m. There may of course be a little political skulduggery there as Ojos lies on the border with Chile whereas Pissis is entirely within Argentina.

Any controversy may well be eliminated after August '97, when Mike Jenkins takes his team of British Military Surveyors from the Royal Engineers to climb Ojos together with a group of like-minded Chilean surveyors. In 1993 Jenkins and his team climbed Chimborazo and made a complex differential GPS survey of the mountain, arriving at an altitude of 6,267m, some 40m or so lower than the long accepted height. The Ecuadorians were so impressed with this technique that they now use the new height on all their official maps (see INFO 136). The Argentinians used identical techniques to come up with the height of 6,882m for Pissis in 1995 (see INFO 150) but Ojos has yet to have any such treatment and may yet prove the higher mountain.

Jenkins compares today's military surveyors to the old Survey of India team who first explored many of Asia's high peaks in the last century. Names such as George Everest, Colonel Montgomerie and Kenneth Mason ensure a proud tradition of military surveyors and one which still compels the modern day 'descendants' to travel to unknown lands. In October/November 1996 three British mountaineers, Gordon and John Biggar plus Richard Wilkins, made some interesting first British ascents in the region including Pissis.

The team approached the largely snowless mountains from the village of Fiambala in Northern Argentina and first made an ascent of the very rarely climbed Cazadero (6,658m), which lies to the southwest of Ojos and is also known as Walther Penck. The volcano was originally climbed by Japanese in 1970 and only appears to have received one ascent since, by a group from Chile in 1991. The British team climbed the easy northern slopes. All three then made an ascent of the Argentinian side of Ojos del Salado, reaching the summit on a cold and windy 31st October.

The group then transferred the 75km south to Pissis and made the ascent on the 10th November via the North Glacier from a high camp at 5,900m. Those final c1,000m took only six hours in near perfect weather, a particularly notable achievement for Gordon Biggar and Wilkins, aged 59 and 60 respectively. Pissis was first climbed by the Poles in 1937 with a second ascent not recorded until 1985. Two Americans, Kent Pierce and Stuart Richie who reached the top on the 27th February this year at the end of a 17 days stint, in which they climbed all three highest summits in South America (Pissis reached by a remote cross country drive involving an unauthorized border crossing in to Argentina), found the summit register to contain entries for less than 10 ascents since '85. This lack of attention may soon change if the label 'second highest peak in the Americas' is widely accepted. Most ascents appear to have been made either by very small parties or solo.

John Biggar, who has made ascents of over 20 of the 50 highest peaks in the Andes and is the author of the recent publication The High Andes - A Guide for Climbers, went on to solo three more of the volcanoes: Olivares (6,216m), Majadita (6,266m: much further south of Pissis) and Nacimiento del Jague (5,829m). The latter is a subsidiary summit of Nacimiento (6,493m) immediately south of Cazadero and was possibly unclimbed before this ascent.